Belgrade is a wonderful city. Unlike Zagreb or some other cities, everything here seems more relaxed. People don’t stay cooped up at home; they go out, giving the city its unique charm. With so many people, there are also plenty of cafes and restaurants. Honestly, finding a restaurant isn’t a problem, but if it’s your first time in Belgrade, finding the right one could be a challenge.
Most restaurants are located in Skadarlija, a part of the city that feels like a world of its own. Its cobblestone streets seem to transport you back in time, with the only sounds being tambourines, guitars, the chatter of people, and the clinking of forks and knives.
What to Order?
When in Belgrade, there are several must-try dishes: burek (don’t ask for “burek with cheese” because that’s not burek—it’s called sirnica), grilled meats, roast dishes, sarma, đuveč (vegetable stew), moussaka, pork cracklings (čvarci), and the indispensable accompaniment, kajmak (a creamy dairy spread).
One iconic dish is the popular Karađorđe’s schnitzel, created by chef Milovan Mića Stojanović by accident back in 1956. Today, almost every Belgrade restaurant features this schnitzel on its menu. Variations abound, with the best ones made from chicken, pork, kajmak, kačkavalj (sheep’s milk cheese), and ham.
After your meal, treat yourself to authentic Turkish coffee, which pairs wonderfully with desserts like baklava, vanilice (vanilla cookies), or rahat lokum (Turkish delight). You might even feel like you’re in Istanbul rather than Belgrade, but considering the city was under Ottoman rule until the 19th century, this connection makes sense.
Where to Eat?
There’s no definitive answer because you can find food on practically every corner. However, we can recommend a few iconic restaurants that tourists flock to. Don’t get confused and search for two “Tri jelena” (“Three Deer”) restaurants, as such a place doesn’t exist. Instead, you’ll find two restaurants just meters apart: Tri šešira (“Three Hats”) and Dva jelena (“Two Deer”). During the summer months especially, it’s hard to get a table without a reservation at either of these.
Other popular options include Dva bela goluba (Bulevar Despota Stefana 3, Skadarlija), Mala gostionica (Dobračina 6, Belgrade), and Kafanica (Kneza Višeslava 66a).
If you’re in the mood to explore other cuisines, the choices are vast. For Italian specialties, head to Restoran Trag (Đorđa Jovanovića 2) or Botako (Nevesinjska 6). A well-known Mexican option is Ciudad Zapata (Vuka Karadžića 14). If you’re after something quick, check out the fast-food joint Duff (Dr. Milutina Ivkovića 2a/II), or simply stop a student on the street and ask for advice—they’ll surely point you to one of the city’s more affordable eateries.
Enjoy your culinary journey through Belgrade!
