The cult city of southern Italy captivates with its energy, history, and the best pizza you’ll ever taste — all seasoned with a dose of chaotic romance, now better connected than ever thanks to Ryanair’s direct flights from Zagreb.
If you’ve ever dreamed of real Italian chaos, hearing “mamma mia!” on every corner, and the smell of freshly baked pizza following you from the train station to your hostel, then Naples is the perfect city for you. For me, this city was everything I imagined Italy to be — but more intense. Dirtier and livelier than Florence, more spontaneous than Rome, more authentic than Venice. We spent four days soaking up this southern vibe, searching for history beneath our feet and pizza that here is an experience in itself. If you’re ready for an unfiltered Mediterranean, here’s what awaits you.
Welcome to Chaos – and the Best Pizza in the World
We landed in Naples and immediately upon leaving the airport we were greeted by the city’s sounds – scooters flying by just centimeters from pedestrians, shopkeepers shouting from windows, and a taxi driver insisting we pay in cash because “the card machine doesn’t work.” Perfect. But still, public transport is excellent, so we hopped on the bus that stops almost right in front of the airport terminal and takes you directly to the center of Naples. We stayed in the Spaccanapoli district – the heart of the old city that splits Naples in two and is also its liveliest part. If you want to be close to everything and in the middle of life, choose your accommodation here.
First stop? Of course, L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele. The place where the margherita pizza we know today was invented. At Via Cesare Sersale 1, this pizzeria has been baking just two kinds of pizza since 1870: margherita and marinara. Pure perfection – soft dough, slightly tangy San Marzano tomato sauce, silky mozzarella, basil, and olive oil. The price? About €5. The lines can be long, but you can wait with a drink from a nearby bar. This pizzeria wouldn’t be so famous if Julia Roberts herself hadn’t eaten pizza here in the well-known movie Eat, Pray, Love. Unfortunately, we didn’t take a photo because our phones ran out of battery, but trust me – the pizza is amazing. If you need more foodie tips, check out our article on Naples Street Food.
After pizza, we strolled through the old city, full of narrow streets, shops, bars, and small churches, where every corner reminds you that you’re in one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe. Street altars, laundry drying overhead, and the smell of espresso – the real Naples.
Underground, Castles, and Museums – Naples Inside and Out
The second day we started as proper tourists. We asked ChatGPT to generate 20 attractions to see in the city center, and a few minutes later we were off exploring this chaos. First stop was Napoli Sotterranea (the underground tunnels and aqueduct beneath the city itself). The tour starts at Piazza San Gaetano and takes you 40 meters underground through a labyrinth of Roman-era tunnels that were also used as shelters during World War II. Tickets cost about €15, and tours are available in both Italian and English (group tours only, so you can choose between Italian or English guides). With your phone flashlight in hand, you pass through narrow passages, discover remains of ancient water systems, and even see improvised rooms where entire families once hid. Advice – I don’t recommend it if you’re claustrophobic!
After the underground, we returned to the sunshine and walked to Castel dell’Ovo, the oldest castle in Naples. Located on the small island of Megaride, it’s connected to the mainland by a seaside promenade. It’s currently closed for visits, but from the island you get a wonderful view of the bay and the outline of Capri. Around the castle are excellent seafood restaurants – try impepata di cozze (peppered mussels) and fresh pasta with seafood.
In the afternoon, we spent time at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli, one of the most important archaeological museums in Europe. Here you’ll find original sculptures, mosaics, and objects from Pompeii and Herculaneum – spectacular if you love history. Tickets are €20, and I recommend booking online through the official site mannapoli.it. The museum is open daily except Tuesday, from 9 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. This is one of the best archaeological museums in Europe, and I truly recommend visiting.
A Whole Day for Pompeii – A Frozen Moment in History
On the third day, we decided to dedicate the whole day to Pompeii, and it was the perfect choice. It’s one of the most spectacular archaeological sites in the world – the ancient city that in 79 A.D. was buried under ash after the eruption of nearby Vesuvius. The preservation of walls, frescoes, and mosaics leaves you breathless.
Getting to Pompeii is easy – take the Circumvesuviana train from Napoli Garibaldi station to Pompei Scavi – Villa dei Misteri station, the ride takes about 40 minutes. Tickets cost around €3.50 each way, and trains run frequently. Entry to the Pompeii Archaeological Park is €18, and I definitely recommend an audio guide or live guide, which cost an extra €10–15 but enrich the experience greatly.
The most impressive sites are the House of the Faun, the Forum, the amphitheater, the Lupanar (brothel) with original frescoes, and the Villa dei Misteri just outside the main complex. You’ll walk down real Roman streets, see wheel tracks on the stone paving, inscriptions, kitchens, and thermal baths. You’ll need at least 4–5 hours to see the main part of the park, and with the sun and dusty paths – bring water, a hat, and sunscreen!
If you happen to finish Pompeii earlier and find yourself back in Naples, visit the Spanish Quarter.
Markets, Shopping, and Trips: When You Want More Than Pizza and Museums
If, like me, you can’t resist local markets, the smell of fruit, loud vendors, and a chaos of colors, then Naples’ markets will be a real discovery. The liveliest is definitely Mercato di Porta Nolana, located near the main train station – here you’ll find fresh fish, seafood, olives, spices, and everything you need to feel the pulse of everyday Neapolitan life. If you’re more into clothes, bags, and shoes at bargain prices, then head to Mercato di Poggioreale, known among locals as a paradise for “fake” brands but also great second-hand finds. For something more elegant, shopping continues on Via Toledo, the city’s main shopping street that leads straight to the spectacular Galleria Umberto I – a huge arcade with glass domes and mosaics on the floor, perfect for photos or an espresso break in one of its stylish cafés. While the shops here lean towards luxury, walking through the gallery is almost mandatory – not just for shopping, but for the architecture that feels like a mini version of Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele.
If you’re staying more than three days and want to escape the city buzz, I recommend a day trip by boat to Capri – the blue sea, the Blue Grotto, and the cable car ride to Monte Solaro viewpoint are unforgettable. Boats leave from Molo Beverello, tickets are about €25 each way, and it’s best to go early in the morning. And if you’re tempted by the idea of a real summer movie, extend your stay and head further south to the Amalfi Coast. Sorrento, Positano, Ravello… each feels like it was taken straight out of a postcard, with narrow streets, the scent of lemons, and views that take your breath away. From Naples you can take the regional train to Sorrento, and from there continue by bus, boat, or organized tours. In any case, Naples can be both a base and the beginning of a much longer southern adventure.
Practical Tips for Getting Around the City
The best way to get around the city is on foot or by metro. Metro Line 1 is known for its designer-decorated stations – especially Toledo, which looks like a spaceship. Taxis are often unreliable, so choose public transport whenever you can. If you’re flying to Zagreb on a morning flight, keep in mind that your only options to reach the airport on time are a taxi (or Uber), or the train from Garibaldi station. Forget about the metro before 5 a.m., and if you really can’t catch a taxi, you can even walk to the airport – it’ll take you about an hour.
Naples is a city you either fall in love with immediately or find annoying, but it certainly cannot leave you indifferent. If you’ve ever wanted Italy to show you its true face – Naples will do so without hesitation. And trust me, you’ll love it.
